Final Entry: London > Lyon

A multi-faceted city, Lyon could easily entertain and educate for several days with its unique history and culture. A city with a rich history from before the Roman Empire, later as a developing French province, and most recently as a center of Resistance during WWII, Lyon has seen and withstood several notable eras. And like the rest of France, Lyon has a prominent food-centered culture. The city is actually considered the gastronomical capitol of the world and is home to the most Michelin rated restaurants of any city. Also like the rest of France and most of Europe, the city is making great efforts to be more environmentally friendly, a practice important to the culture and way of life. And because it is the third largest city in France, it is broadening its cultural sphere to include that of immigrants and neighboring countries, giving the city an always-changing feeling that one has to feel to understand.

Like with our trip to London, Lyon can be explored chronologically. Starting with the Roman-Gallo era, there are many sites to visit. I would recommend starting in the fifth arrondisement, or the arrondisement where Vieux Lyon is located. Near where I live now, there are vestiges of fountains, aqueducts, and monuments built during the Roman Era. Within walking distance lies the remains of a roman theatre and above it on the hill, Notre Dame de Fourvière, the grand cathedral of Lyon. While Fourvière does not chronologically belong here, I would suggest seeing it before venturing into the Roman remains.

Fourvière was built in 1192 on the hill where the Christian religion had long since laid claim for prayer. Destroyed during religious wars, the church was rebuilt in the sixteenth century. Since then it has been used as a place of worship for those of Catholic faith, and is now a UNESCO world heritage site. Tours are offered of both the crypt and the rooftops; the rooftop tour allows the view of the bell tower and the models used for construction as well as better views of the remarkable stained glass depictions of Bible stories. There is also an extraordinary view of the city of Lyon from the hillside outside of the cathedral that is beneficial to identifying the arrondisements.

Below Fourvière are remains of a Roman Theatre and the Gallo-Roman Museum. This museum explains the role of Roman history in Lyon by presenting artifacts found in the area. It conveys the importance of Lyon, then Lugdunum, to the Roman Empire. It comprehensively expresses the Roman lifestyle, the remaining elements of such lifestyle, and clearly explains the significance of the nearby Roman Theatre. The Roman Theatre itself is a great place to have a picnic lunch or take a break in the sun.

Leaving the area by foot is the best way to get to the next region of Lyon (and my favorite). Vieux Lyon, or the old city, is a great place to witness how the city grew and expanded as a French province as well as experience the Lyonnaise culture. Littered with local restaurants called bouchons, petits magasins, and enough glaciers (ice cream parlors) to satisfy any sweet tooth, Vieux Lyon is a cultural paradise. Other significant attractions include the traboules, or hidden cobblestone pathways between streets, Guignol (the Lyonnais puppet) references, and the Miniature Museum. St. Jean’s cathedral is not only beautiful but impossible to miss.

Moving into modern history, Lyon played a great role in the Resistance during World War Two. This can be best seen in the Resistance Museum, where the stories of secret newspapers and those who died for the cause are recounted and the events of World War Two are told in relation to Free France. An investigation of metro stops and parts of the city can reveal the influence as well as many are named after Resistance leaders and events. Plaques are also posted on multiple buildings, and other museums such as a prison used by the Germans during the war called Montluc commemorate the history.

To experience Lyonnaise culture more fully, I would recommend a visit to the local markets. Food really is a driving force here, but the local markets are full of other products, as well, such as clothing, flowers, and even books. The indoor food markets, such as the Halles de Paul Bocuse, offer a different atmosphere than the open air markets, and during my exploration of Lyon we did a wine and cheese tasting there—something I think was not only enjoyable but culturally significant.

Other cultural hotspots I would recommend are Bellecour and Parc de la tête d’Or. The city-center for all intents and purposes, Bellecour is home to a large statue of Louis XIV on a horse, a Ferris Wheel for part of the year, and the largest pedestrian square in France. It is surrounded by shopping and is within walking distance of almost everywhere, including Vieux Lyon and Croix Rousse. The park is a common gathering place for people in good weather, and inside is a zoo, free to the public, as well as a botanical gardens. You can also paddleboat on the lake.  

Lyon also offers a multitude of arts and museums. The opera, directly across from the Hotel de Ville, hosts shows of all kinds. Nearby is the Musée des Beaux Arts. In Confluence, an area of Lyon more modern and upscale, there is the Musée des Confluences which hosts permanent exhibits of natural history and humanity facing death, but also temporary exhibits that have ranged from the cultural significance of shoes to the exploration of Antarctica since I’ve been here. As I mentioned before, the Miniature Museum is in Vieux Lyon and displays props used in many Hollywood movies as well as a floor of just miniature scenes built by a French miniaturist. The Lumière Brothers Museum is also within the city, displaying the history of the creation of film.

While I love Lyon and I cannot imagine having spent my semester studying anywhere else, I do not think I would argue to come to Lyon instead of London for the class trip. For one, Lyon holds tightly to its French identity, and unlike Paris, a lot of people do not speak English. And while I think the history of this region is particularly interesting and the culture profound, I found the history of London more rare and relatable to us as Americans. I definitely think Lyon is worth visiting; with all it has to offer it is basically impossible to not learn anything. However, for a look on European Culture—this year especially with Brexit happening—I found London to be a city with more of a relation to modern history. Lyon could not offer the European view that London provided.