Final Entry: London > Lyon

A multi-faceted city, Lyon could easily entertain and educate for several days with its unique history and culture. A city with a rich history from before the Roman Empire, later as a developing French province, and most recently as a center of Resistance during WWII, Lyon has seen and withstood several notable eras. And like the rest of France, Lyon has a prominent food-centered culture. The city is actually considered the gastronomical capitol of the world and is home to the most Michelin rated restaurants of any city. Also like the rest of France and most of Europe, the city is making great efforts to be more environmentally friendly, a practice important to the culture and way of life. And because it is the third largest city in France, it is broadening its cultural sphere to include that of immigrants and neighboring countries, giving the city an always-changing feeling that one has to feel to understand.

Like with our trip to London, Lyon can be explored chronologically. Starting with the Roman-Gallo era, there are many sites to visit. I would recommend starting in the fifth arrondisement, or the arrondisement where Vieux Lyon is located. Near where I live now, there are vestiges of fountains, aqueducts, and monuments built during the Roman Era. Within walking distance lies the remains of a roman theatre and above it on the hill, Notre Dame de Fourvière, the grand cathedral of Lyon. While Fourvière does not chronologically belong here, I would suggest seeing it before venturing into the Roman remains.

Fourvière was built in 1192 on the hill where the Christian religion had long since laid claim for prayer. Destroyed during religious wars, the church was rebuilt in the sixteenth century. Since then it has been used as a place of worship for those of Catholic faith, and is now a UNESCO world heritage site. Tours are offered of both the crypt and the rooftops; the rooftop tour allows the view of the bell tower and the models used for construction as well as better views of the remarkable stained glass depictions of Bible stories. There is also an extraordinary view of the city of Lyon from the hillside outside of the cathedral that is beneficial to identifying the arrondisements.

Below Fourvière are remains of a Roman Theatre and the Gallo-Roman Museum. This museum explains the role of Roman history in Lyon by presenting artifacts found in the area. It conveys the importance of Lyon, then Lugdunum, to the Roman Empire. It comprehensively expresses the Roman lifestyle, the remaining elements of such lifestyle, and clearly explains the significance of the nearby Roman Theatre. The Roman Theatre itself is a great place to have a picnic lunch or take a break in the sun.

Leaving the area by foot is the best way to get to the next region of Lyon (and my favorite). Vieux Lyon, or the old city, is a great place to witness how the city grew and expanded as a French province as well as experience the Lyonnaise culture. Littered with local restaurants called bouchons, petits magasins, and enough glaciers (ice cream parlors) to satisfy any sweet tooth, Vieux Lyon is a cultural paradise. Other significant attractions include the traboules, or hidden cobblestone pathways between streets, Guignol (the Lyonnais puppet) references, and the Miniature Museum. St. Jean’s cathedral is not only beautiful but impossible to miss.

Moving into modern history, Lyon played a great role in the Resistance during World War Two. This can be best seen in the Resistance Museum, where the stories of secret newspapers and those who died for the cause are recounted and the events of World War Two are told in relation to Free France. An investigation of metro stops and parts of the city can reveal the influence as well as many are named after Resistance leaders and events. Plaques are also posted on multiple buildings, and other museums such as a prison used by the Germans during the war called Montluc commemorate the history.

To experience Lyonnaise culture more fully, I would recommend a visit to the local markets. Food really is a driving force here, but the local markets are full of other products, as well, such as clothing, flowers, and even books. The indoor food markets, such as the Halles de Paul Bocuse, offer a different atmosphere than the open air markets, and during my exploration of Lyon we did a wine and cheese tasting there—something I think was not only enjoyable but culturally significant.

Other cultural hotspots I would recommend are Bellecour and Parc de la tête d’Or. The city-center for all intents and purposes, Bellecour is home to a large statue of Louis XIV on a horse, a Ferris Wheel for part of the year, and the largest pedestrian square in France. It is surrounded by shopping and is within walking distance of almost everywhere, including Vieux Lyon and Croix Rousse. The park is a common gathering place for people in good weather, and inside is a zoo, free to the public, as well as a botanical gardens. You can also paddleboat on the lake.  

Lyon also offers a multitude of arts and museums. The opera, directly across from the Hotel de Ville, hosts shows of all kinds. Nearby is the Musée des Beaux Arts. In Confluence, an area of Lyon more modern and upscale, there is the Musée des Confluences which hosts permanent exhibits of natural history and humanity facing death, but also temporary exhibits that have ranged from the cultural significance of shoes to the exploration of Antarctica since I’ve been here. As I mentioned before, the Miniature Museum is in Vieux Lyon and displays props used in many Hollywood movies as well as a floor of just miniature scenes built by a French miniaturist. The Lumière Brothers Museum is also within the city, displaying the history of the creation of film.

While I love Lyon and I cannot imagine having spent my semester studying anywhere else, I do not think I would argue to come to Lyon instead of London for the class trip. For one, Lyon holds tightly to its French identity, and unlike Paris, a lot of people do not speak English. And while I think the history of this region is particularly interesting and the culture profound, I found the history of London more rare and relatable to us as Americans. I definitely think Lyon is worth visiting; with all it has to offer it is basically impossible to not learn anything. However, for a look on European Culture—this year especially with Brexit happening—I found London to be a city with more of a relation to modern history. Lyon could not offer the European view that London provided.  

Final Blog Entry - Seville

Seville, a city with a rich history stemming from Roman, Islamic, and Catholic origins, is a great destination to visit to better understand and learn about the history of Spanish culture. One of the factors that has had the largest role in shaping the culture of Seville throughout the centuries has been religion. Currently, approximately 73% of the country’s population identifies as Catholic, but the percentage of the population that practices Catholicism is approximately 14%. If I were to give a tour of Spain, I would focus on this phenomenon because those statistics and the history behind them are fundamental to understanding many aspects of the society. Before the Muslims from the north of Africa entered the south of Spain in 711, Spain was a Christian nation. However, 11 years later, the Muslims had conquered the entire country except for the Kingdom of Asturias, which is located in the far north of Spain. It is evident that the Islamic conquest of the country began in the south of Spain because the cultural influence is seen in southern cities, such as Seville and Granada, to a much larger extent than in northern cities. To illustrate this point, I would take the group to the Plaza de España and point out the Islamic-style ceramic tiles that surround the landmark. Also, I would take the group to walk around Barrio Santa Cruz because the narrow, winding streets are characteristic of the Islamic street style.

Next, I would take the group to the Muralla de la Macarena, which is a wall that was built in the twelfth century under the Islamic rule of the city for protection. I would then have the group walk through the arc that is located along this wall because it is the same arc that the kings of Castile used to enter the city.

In 722, the Catholics began the Reconquista, which lasted for eight hundred years. This time period corresponded with the Gothic era in Spain, and as a result, many Gothic style cathedrals were built. To illustrate this I would take the group to the Cathedral of Seville, which is the largest cathedral in the world. The site where this cathedral is located originally contained a mosque; however the mosque was converted into a cathedral – an occurrence that was frequent during that time period. I would take the students inside the cathedral and show them all of the gothic style elements that it contains, such as the high ceilings and pointed arches. Next, we would ascend the Giralda, the cathedral’s bell tower. I would explain that the bottom portion of this structure used to be the tower of the mosque, but after the Christians took over the building, they increased its height and added a cross and a bell on top. I would then point out the inscription of Seville’s motto, “NO8DO” that is located on the tower. That abbreviation stands for “No me ha dejado,” which means that the city “has not abandoned me.” This motto can be seen all throughout the city, so after this explanation I would ask the students to look around for the motto and count how many times they see it. After we descend, I would take the group to walk around the outside of the Giralda and point out the ancient Roman stones that make up the foundation, which can be identified by the Latin graffiti that they contain.

Although the majority of the Catholics in Spain do not practice, the religion still underlies the culture in many ways. For example, every year, Holy Week — the week before Easter – is celebrated all over Spain, but especially in Andalusian cities such as Seville. During this week, each of the city’s 50 brotherhoods carries enormous floats that usually weigh over 2000 kilograms. Hundreds of penitents, which are members of the brotherhoods that dress up in special costumes, follow behind these floats. The brotherhoods walk around the streets for over twelve hours at a time, and these processions can be seen daily at almost any hour throughout the week. This event is incredible to see, but I would not take the group to Seville during this celebration because the streets are extremely crowded; in general over a million people are in the city center during this week, which makes it hard to tour the city and enter important buildings, such as the Cathedral of Seville. Also, catholic traditions such as baptism, communion, and catholic weddings are common customs that are further testaments of the influence of Catholicism on Spanish culture.

I would schedule two walking tours for this trip – one of the Royal Palace and the other of Barrio Santa Cruz, the Jewish quarter of the city. The tour of Barrio Santa Cruz through a company called Pancho Tours will take us through all the winding streets of the area and teach us about the history from the Middle Ages to present day. This tour also will take us to see Roman aqueducts and Roman columns, which are located in Seville because Spain was under Roman control from the third century B.C. until the fifth century A.D. The walking tour of the Royal Palace will take us throughout the rooms and gardens of the palace while talking about the history of the architecture and the contributions of different kings to the palace throughout the centuries. Similar to the Cathedral of Seville, the Royal Palace also is of Islamic origins.

Next, I would talk about the poor economy of Spain, which is evident by the high unemployment that the country faces and the low prices of services and food. To illustrate this, I would take the group out for “tapas,” which are small Spanish dishes that usually cost €3 at most. I would then relate the poor economy to the political corruption that plagues the country, which is leading to the rise of radical third parties, such as Podemos and Ciudadanos.

            If the students had free time during the trip, I would recommend that they go to see a Flamenco show because that style of dance and music originates from the south of Spain. These shows are fun to watch and show another side of Spanish culture. For the students to get a good sense of the city's people, I would recommend that they start conversations with the locals that they encounter in shops and restaurants. In general, the people of Seville are very friendly and welcoming, so talking with them is a great way to learn about how they live their lives and their opinions on the topics that we have discussed in class.

            As much as I love this city, I would not argue for a visit to Seville instead of London. The course is titled “Europe: Crisis and Opportunity,” and I think that London better exemplifies those two concepts. For one, London is facing the crisis that accompanies the decision to leave the EU, but London also is a country filled with many opportunities due to its great economy. Also, with Brexit being a recent occurrence, London is a great city to visit to better understand how those sentiments could arise from the cultural and physical separation that characterizes the country.

Paris all the way

Paris is a bustling city where any tourist can find their new favorite place. One trip to Paris will never be enough time to see everything that you want to see. While visiting the Eiffel Tower for the twentieth time last week, I overheard a tour guide say that you would need fourteen days of non-stop sight seeing to be able to pack in everything this city has to offer. I easily disagree, you need much more time, as I have been here over four months and still know I will leave not having seen many important sites. With this being said, I have thoughtfully picked out the top places and things to do in order to get the most out Paris in four days.

The history of Paris stretches back over 2000 years and Christianity was introduced to the city around the second century. Christianity played a big role in the development of the city and this can be seen through several popular churches and cathedrals. The iconic cathedral in Paris is Notre Dame, which was started in 12 AD, and provides the best example of traditional French Gothic architecture.  Inside the cathedral, visitors can make their way to the Archaeological Crypt where they can see Roman ruins that have been preserved since the 1960’s. The ruins are believed to be from the earliest Parisian settlers. Since being completed in the 1300’s, Notre Dame has been standing for the latter half of Paris’s history. The story of the city’s history can be seen through this cathedral, from the riots of the Huguenots, the French Revolution, and World War Two, many alterations and restorations occurred from these events, which has made the cathedral look how it does today. (Students should also cross the river and visit the bookstore Shakespeare and Company).

More Christian and Gothic influences can be seen through the Sainte-Chappelle royal chapel. This chapel is home to the largest and most intricate 13th century stained-glass collections in the world. Stepping into the chapel, one can view stories from the Old Testament from the 15 panes of stained-glass. Like Notre Dame, the Sainte-Chappelle chapel has been standing for nearly 800 years and has gone through several re-creations to combat Paris’s history. Visiting these two religious building can easily and quickly give a tourist a brief history of the city they are staying in, and also provide amazing detail and art to appreciate.

If these religious monuments weren’t enough, the group should take the time to visit the Le Marais area to get cultured with Jewish history. This area is easily walkable from Notre Dame. Le Marais is known as the Jewish District and is home to many Jewish monuments, a museum, and delicious challah, falafel, and pastries. It is easily my favorite district in Paris, and students will see why when they visit.

More history waits to be discovered in Paris. The next site to see is the Palace of Versailles. A quick 40 minute train ride out of the city center takes you to this magnificent piece of architecture and history. The best way to gather the most information from the Palace is to do it with a tour guide who can enlighten students on the historical events that occurred right where they are walking. The Palace of Versailles holds nearly 400 years of world history in its chateau and has been the site of many political movements, like the Treaties of Versailles. Not only does it hold rich history, but the artistic endeavours that went into to constructing it can quickly amaze anyone.

Similar to London, Paris has a river that played a part in its history. I suggest doing a river tour along the River Seine in order to get an understanding of its history and ties to helping Paris become the city it is today. A river tour is also the best and quickest ways to see more popular buildings in Paris. One can spot the Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame, the Grand Palais, parts of the Louvre, Musee D’Orsay, and the traditional and famous Parisian architecture that fills the whole city.

Another popular place to tour, one which I have done myself, is the area of Montmartre. This tour will start at the Moulin Rouge, wind through the artistic vistas of the area, and end at the Basilica de Sacre-Coeur with a view of the city. The cobblestone streets are lined with striving artists showcasing their work and some of the buildings even have art painted on them. Sacre-Coeur is also another great monument of Paris. One doesn’t even need to see the inside to notice the time and commitment that went into building it. This area is also home to great and authentic French cuisine, a great place to stop for lunch after climbing the 300 steps to Sacre-Coeur.

If the students are allowed free time, I suggest them taking the metro to the Louvre, walking around the outside and seeing the popular glass pyramid, then walking straight for about a mile and ending their journey at the Arc de Triomphe. This seems like a lot of walking but Paris’s most popular tourist destinations lie along this strip. One can see the Louvre, the Tuileries Gardens, the Eiffel Tower in the distance, the ferris wheel, the Champs-Elysees, and finally the Arc de Triomphe. If the students have free time at night, I suggest them taking the metro to Trocadero to see the Eiffel Tower. The tower is much more magical in the night sky, as it lights up and sparkles every hour. If the students are looking to see the less touristy side of Paris, I recommend they visit any of the numerous gardens and parks that lie in the city. My favorite include the Jardin des Plantes, Jardin du Luxembourg, or Bois de Boulogne. Paris is known for its gardens and they are a great place to take a breather from the hustle of the city.

As much as I enjoyed London, I would easily argue for a visit to Paris. Paris is much larger and there is always places to see. I also enjoy the architecture of Paris much more than London. Since Paris is within the Schengen area, students can see how being a part of the EU can shape a country, such as witnessing first hand the Syrian refugee crisis, as many refugees find shelter in the metro system. Paris is a hub for history, fashion, architecture, and so much more. There are countless museums, cathedrals, restaurants, gardens, and streets to get lost in that tell the history of the country better than any book could. It is impossible to fit Paris into four days, which will leave students wanting to come back and see even more.

FINAL - Blog Post 8 for May 4 Class

To truly understand Lyon’s history and its place in the greater European context, it is necessary to discuss its Roman origins. Founded in 43 B.C. as a home for Roman refugees shortly after the assassination of Julius Caesar, it was known as Lugdunum, or “Desired Mountain.” The Romans recognized that its prime location at the convergence of two rivers connected northern and southeastern France, resulting in the perfect communications hub; consequently, they decided to make Lyon both the starting point of the main Roman roads throughout Gaul (the predecessor of modern-day France) and the capital of Gaul. Lyon’s silk trade drove its industrial development during the Renaissance, and the fifteenth century bazaars and fairs of Italian merchants in Lyon led to the city’s high economic importance. Later, during World War II, Lyon served as the center of the French Resistance. Its geographic location placed it under the Vichy regime, meaning it was technically unoccupied although the Nazis did inhabit the city for several years. Today, Lyon stands as the third largest city in France; a major center for the financial, chemical, pharmaceutical, and biotechnology sectors; the French gastronomic capital; and the international headquarters of Euronews and Interpol.

The best place to begin a tour of Lyon is undoubtedly at the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière; built in the late 1800s as a “thank you” to the Virgin Mary after she supposedly saved the city from Prussian forces during the Franco-Prussian War, it does not have an impressively long history. It does, however, offer a beautiful panoramic view of the city, allowing visitors to gain an understanding of Lyon’s overall layout before exploring it more in-depth. Ruins of two Roman amphitheaters can be found a short walk west of the basilica, along with the Gallo-Roman Museum which further details Lyon’s ancient origins. In the summertime, concerts are held at these amphitheaters, perfectly blending the ancient history with the new culture. From there, it is best to make your way down the hill following the winding cobblestoned streets of Vieux Lyon, the city’s Medieval and Renaissance quarter. This neighborhood is replete with shops and restaurants, but its most special gems are hidden behind closed doors; beginning in the 4th century, traboules—hidden passageways—were constructed throughout Vieux Lyon and the Croix-Rousse hill, enabling silk makers to move quickly between their workshops and the textile merchants. In the 20th century, these same traboules helped Resistance fighters and other locals escape Gestapo raids. If you know which doors to look behind, you can still access many of these traboules today. While in Vieux Lyon, visitors should eat at a traditional Lyonnais restaurant, called a bouchon, and sample the local dishes such as sausage or duck pâté. Next on the itinerary is a visit to La Maison des Canuts in Croix-Rousse, a museum dedicated to the importance of the fabrication of silk in the history and development of Lyon. Afterwards, we would journey to Place Bellecour, one of the largest town squares in Europe. There is not much to see here beyond a statue of Louis XIV, but its location in the center of the city between the two rivers provides a good opportunity to reorient yourself geographically, especially as the Fourvière Basilica is quite visible from the open plaza. The final stop on our guided walking tour would be at the Centre d’histoire de la résistance et de la déportation, a museum dedicated to detailing the story of the French Resistance fighters and the deportation of the Jews, specifically from Lyon and the surrounding region. In the evening, it would be a fun cultural activity to attend an opera or other musical performance at the Opéra Nouvel.

If the weather is nice, a good free-time activity is a picnic! The St. Antoine Market is open everyday except Monday along the banks of the Saône and offers the perfect place to purchase food, with dozens of vendors offering fresh produce, meats, cheeses, and breads. You will mingle with Lyonnais locals completing their routine grocery shopping and have the chance to sample authentic and delicious locally produced food. After you have made your purchases, options abound for ideal picnic locations, but my two personal favorites are either in the grassy areas along one of the riverbanks or anywhere in Parc de la Tête d’Or (a massive park complete with a free zoo!). Depending on how much free time is available, another option is to enjoy a football game; Lyon is home to a Ligue 1 men’s team, Olympique Lyonnais, and its female counterpart, the Division 1 Olympique Lyonnais Féminin team. Finally, a wonderful way to get to know any city is simply to wander through its streets; in Lyon, in particular, I recommend the Renaissance area of Vieux Lyon, the silk district of Croix-Rousse, and the varied architectural gems of Presqu’île.

I have sincerely enjoyed studying in Lyon, but no, I would not advocate a switch from London to Lyon for the purposes of this class. Although Lyon is a UNESCO World Heritage site and a city of much economic and political importance, I do not believe students would benefit as much from a visit to Lyon as I believe I benefited from a visit to London. This course is about a Europe in crisis and, although many French citizens currently feel that the presidential elections are indeed a crisis of the highest degree, I believe no place in Europe better exemplifies the current issues than London. (Granted, I am writing this before the outcome of the elections; if Madame Le Pen wins, it may be a totally different story.) Furthermore, beyond what I already mentioned earlier, I cannot think of much else to do in Lyon except visit a couple of art museums—a stark contrast to London, where I felt like a lifetime would never allow me to see and do everything that city has to offer.

Visit Paris! Book With Your Travel Agent Now!

Instead of London for the Europe in Crisis course, I would suggest Paris, France.  Paris is a fantastic choice for the visit for a variety of reasons.  This year, we traveled to London in the midst of Brexit negotiations.  Walking within a ten-thousand-strong Brexit protest in Westminster will be one of the most memorable experiences of my college career.  However, as Brexit becomes more of a pencil-pushing process, Paris would be a fantastic alternative due to its historical and economic lessons.

            Paris is in the heart of Europe and has been a strong presence within European history and politics within the past few hundred years.  Firstly, it has maintained a strong sense of Catholicism while other European countries have become more protestant.  This gives certain insights as to what religious culture may have been like in the past with mirrors in the present.  As someone who is very interested in World War II, Paris has a unique history.  It is important to analyze Parisians role in World War II and their compliance with the Nazi regime.  I thought that “American in Paris” did a great job demonstrating some of this, but that was only a play.  It would be awesome to take students into Paris and go to sites of historical importance to the both the resistance and those who complied.  As beautiful and stunning as it is, it is somber reality to remember that the Eiffel Tower was once used a Nazi radio broadcasting tower.  In addition to some of these historical reasons, Paris would also be an interesting city to visit due to its economic position.  Britain has left the European Union.  France remains, but on a thread if Marine Le Pen secures the Presidency.  Without France or Germany, the European Union would cease to exist.  Traveling to Paris would now be traveling to the heart of the European Union and seeing, in action, the goals they are attempting achieve and how it affects the economy.

            In order to better explain these factors, there are a multitude of places that students could visit within the city.  When considering Catholicism, Notre Dame undoubtedly comes to mind.  Its sheer size, stark Gothic architecture, and dimly lit interior are impressive and moving to even the most non-religious people.  It is truly a site and represents just how important Catholicism was, and still is, to the French people.  As an ancillary, I would also suggest the nearby Sainte Chappelle, whose elegant stained glass windows depict the full bible.  These may be cliché points of interest, but they are some of the best areas in the city to understand the effect of Catholicism on the French.

            To understand more concrete historical examples, such as the French revolution and Paris’s involvement in World War II, I would suggest several sites.  Place de la Concorde is a great square across from the Tuiliures Garden where many people lost their lives to the guillotine.  The French Revolution was integral to France’s development as a country and their culture today.  To wrap this up, I would also visit Invalides, where the students could take a brief stop in the war museum and visit the monumental tomb that Napoleon is enshrined in.  By the time the students have made their way through the military museum and seen the great emperor, they are close to Ecole Militaire, where it is easy to imagine the setting of the Dreyfus Affair. 

            I would be remiss in not suggesting the Eiffel Tower as it is arguable the most important icon of the city.  It is beautiful.  The view from the top is breathtaking and dizzying, even if the Montparnasse Tower imposes itself against the skyline.  It is also important to visit the other high point in Paris, Sacre Cœur.  Sacre Cœure remains one of my favorite cathedrals in Europe; it is an architectural marvel.  It is perfect to visit as the Eiffel Tower and the Cathedral went up around the same time, one a massive, secular demonstration of European engineering, and the other a giant, imposing cathedral.  The presence of these two towers truly demonstrates the give and take of these two theologies within the city and Europe as a whole. 

            Lastly, to look at the heart of the European Union’s economic blood, I would suggest a short trip to La Defense.  Yes, it is mostly gray buildings, but the massive office buildings and skyscrapers are a startling contrast to the rest of Paris.  One can really see the hustle and bustle of the work week as men and women in suits use scooters, hover boards, and their two feet to get from one meeting to the next.  It is an interesting site and one can almost see the exciting aura emanating from the buildings.  I might be biased in my description, though; it is my home.

            If there is enough time for a short day trip, I could not recommend Versailles or Fontainebleau enough.  They both represent perfectly the decadence and over demonstration of wealth within French royalty.  They are massive buildings with each room containing more priceless items than the last.  Personally, I would suggest Fontainebleau, as the crowd volume is considerably less than Versailles.  I went to Versailles in January and it was difficult to walk from room to room due to the throngs of people.   When I visited Fontainebleau, however, I freely was able to enjoy the self-guided tour.  I might have seen no more than thirty people in the entire building.  Fontainebleau is just as grand (and in my opinion) more interesting than Versailles.

             During free time, I would suggest strolling around Montmarte.  It is one of the most interesting neighborhoods and is featured in many works of art.  You can even see Picasso’s studio windows from the street.  The winding streets and hilly alleyways make it an interesting change of pace from the wide avenues in the center of Paris.  One of my favorite other neighborhoods is Le Marais.  This is the Jewish neighborhood so on a personal level, it is important to me.  However, the streets are beautifully manicured in this area with many fantastic Jewish bakeries and storefronts.  However, the one thing that keeps dragging me back to this neighborhood is the falafel.  La’s du Falafel makes the best falafel on earth.  Period.  I have never found myself craving something week after week.  I have had it no less than ten times since I have lived in Paris.  I think it is what I will miss the most.

            Paris has a lot to offer.  It is a great city filled to the brim with culture and history.  Contrary to what I believed in the Winter, it has now become my favorite European city.  I hate that I will be leaving in less than a month, but it will make returning all the more sweet.